DIY Industrial Bathroom Light Fixtures

Lighting is an typically missed however key element of a house’s type. The chances of lighting designs are nearly limitless, the secret’s discovering what speaks to you + enhances your area + stays inside price range all on the similar time. This tutorial offers a step-by-step information on creating your personal customized mild fixture (this one is geared towards rest room lighting) with an industrial vibe. You’ll be able to lengthen or shorten the dimensions, change up the variety of bulbs, and customise the sunshine in a number of different methods to suit your area and your fashion, however the finish outcome shall be a wonderful industrial lighting fixture that you simply’re positive to like for years to return.

Notice: This tutorial is offered by an skilled DIYer, NOT knowledgeable electrician. It’s meant solely for demonstration functions; search skilled recommendation with any questions or considerations you’ve gotten. We aren’t liable for any issues that come up because of following this tutorial. Additionally, this tutorial exhibits tips on how to construct a 3-bulb industrial mild fixture with primary instruments (e.g., no router). Regulate provides and supplies accordingly as wanted for extra or fewer bulbs.

DIY Degree: Intermediate

Supplies Wanted:

  • 1×6 pine board minimize to your required size (instance exhibits 30” for a 3-bulb fixture)
  • three/eight” poplar boards (approximate size wanted = twice the peak of your fixture + twice the size)
  • Three (three) half” galvanized flooring flanges in black
  • Three (three) 1/2″ x four” galvanized nipples in black
  • Three (three) 1/2″ x three/four″ galvanized decreasing elbows in black (one finish is 1/2″ and the opposite is three/four″)
  • Three (three) outside/weatherproof sockets in black
  • 10’ every black and white 14# wire (not proven)
  • 4 (four) 5/sixteen”x4” hex lag screws (any shade; will probably be spray painted)
  • Twelve (12) 1/2” flat head wooden screws (any colour; shall be spray painted)
  • Three (three) Edison-type mild bulbs (not proven)
  • Rustoleum Hammered Gray spray paint
  • Wooden stain (instance makes use of Minwax Darkish Walnut wooden stain)
  • Wooden glue + clamps

Step 1: Connect poplar boards to again of pine board. You need your poplar boards to match up precisely with the sides of your minimize 1×6 pine board. Start by measuring and slicing the 2 aspect items (that may run vertically), then measure and reduce the highest and backside lengths to suit inside these.

Dry match these to the again of your pine board, clamping into place to make sure alignment. Modify lengths as wanted for an ideal match.

Unfold a medium quantity of wooden glue to the poplar boards, then connect the glued aspect to the again of your 1×6 pine board.

Clamp in place; repeat for all 4 poplar boards.

Wipe away any extra glue that squeezes out.

Let wooden glue dry utterly.

Step 2: Paint screws. Screw all flat screws and 4 hex screws a simply little methods into a bit of scrap wooden.

Spray paint the tops of those screws together with your Rustoleum Hammered Gray spray paint. This colour will fairly intently match the galvanized elements of your lighting fixture. Let spray paint dry completely.

Step three: Connect the sockets & wiring. Lay out the items within the order they’ll be assembled for every bulb, however don’t assemble them but.

The outside/weatherproof sockets don’t match into the three/four” aspect of the galvanized elbows; actually, I used to be unable to seek out any piece through which they’d match for this lighting challenge. After squeezing the items collectively as greatest you possibly can, use a small quantity of tremendous glue to connect the items.

Clamp the sockets and elbows collectively till the glue dries completely; we waited 24 hours.

At this level, you may need a number of elements of your lighting fixture drying – the wooden glue in your 1×6 pine board, the spray paint in your screws, and the tremendous glue in your sockets/elbows.

Step four: Stain 1×6 pine board. When the wooden glue has dried utterly, add wooden stain to the entrance and sides of your pine board, together with the edges of your poplar items.

Brush wooden stain on with a clear brush, wipe off extra after a minute or two. Repeat till you obtain the extent of stained darkness you’re after. Let stain dry utterly.

Step 5: Drill holes for lights. Measure the vertical middle of your board and keep in mind this quantity. As a result of this 1×6 board is 30” lengthy and wanted three mild bulbs, I measured 7” in from both sides, then eight” in from these marks. (So, from left to proper, my measurements have been: 7 – eight – eight – 7, with every sprint representing a marked gap.)

Utilizing the vertical middle measurement and the aspect-to-aspect measurements, I marked then drilled these three holes. I used a three/eight” drill bit and made every gap a bit wider than that, aiming for about 1/2″ in gap measurement.

With the holes drilled into your board and your sockets hooked up to the galvanized elbows, you’re prepared to start out wiring your industrial mild fixture.

Step 6: Connect flanges to pine board. Middle the holes of your flanges over the drilled holes of your pine board.

When the flanges are completely centered, safe them to the board together with your spray painted 1/2″ flat head screws.


Step 7: Wire the sockets. You’re going to need a parallel circuit in order that if one mild goes out, the others will keep lit. This merely signifies that every socket’s wires might be related to the neighboring socket’s wires, thus making all of them related to the primary electrical supply (wall wires). (Observe: The electrical supply in my toilet is off-centered on the fitting-hand aspect, so we wired our fixture accordingly. Be sure to know the place your electrical supply is, and plan accordingly together with your wiring positioning.)

The socket wires might be too brief to journey during the four” galvanized nipples, so that you’ll need to connect further black and white wires by way of wire nuts. These further wires ought to be lengthy sufficient to connect to the socket wires, journey by way of the four” nipple, and attain the neighboring socket gap. Tip: Stagger-minimize the socket wires so the wire nuts gained’t hit on the similar level within the four” nipple.

Tape the wire nuts, straighten them out, and thread them rigorously by means of the four” nipple.

Thread the wires by means of the flange and drilled gap within the pine board, then rigorously screw the socket + nipple onto the flange.

Repeat wiring steps on the neighboring socket. It is best to have the 2 sockets’ black and white wires lengthy sufficient to satisfy up with one another. You’ll be including in a 3rd set of black and white wires to attach with the subsequent (or, on this case, the final) socket.

Connect the three white wires (white wires from sockets #1 and #2, and a 3rd wire that may join with socket #three) and the three black wires (similar socket-connecting state of affairs) with wire nuts.

Add electrical tape across the wire nuts. You might have another socket to go.

Wire up socket #three the identical means that you simply did sockets #1 and #2, with the staggered-minimize socket wires. Connect the third galvanized nipple to the flange after wires thread by means of the opening in your pine board.

With a wire nut, connect the black socket wire coming from the connection of sockets #1 and #2 to the black wire from socket #three, then add in another black wire into the combination. This third black wire will probably be what connects to the black wall wire in your mild fixture field. Do the identical together with your white wires. When all is claimed and accomplished, you need to have the free ends of only one black and one white wire; all different wire ends ought to be related with taped-up wire nuts.

Step eight: Connect and hold your mild fixture. First, FLIP THE ELECTRIAL BREAKER OFF. Then discover the studs in your wall, then mark these positions in your fixture. Predrill your pine board in your hex screws, being extraordinarily cautious to not drill via the wires on the again. Wire up your mild fixture, attaching the white wire of your fixture to the white wire of your electrical supply, and doing the identical with the black to black wires. After you’re wired up, ratchet the economic mild fixture into place together with your hex screws. Verify to make sure degree.

Step 9: Screw in your Edison mild bulbs. When your fixture is wired up and securely hooked up to the wall, screw your bulbs into the sockets. (Advocate Edison-type mild bulbs, particularly LEDs, for power conservation and heat lighting.)

My toilet had solely two usable studs, very near the middle of the sunshine fixture. Fortuitously, they have been principally centered, regardless that I might have most popular them additional towards the ends of the sunshine fixture itself.

Flip the breaker again on, and check out your new industrial mild fixture. Isn’t it unbelievable?!

Congratulations! You’ve simply accomplished your industrial mild fixture, and your rest room is nicely on its solution to turning into the fashionable area you envision. We hope this tutorial is useful in your DIY journey for an industrial-fashion rest room mild fixture.

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